2012 Summation Red Wine Blend, Vintner’s Reserve, Kendall-Jackson

Kendall-Jackson is recognized by oenophiles and neophytes, a brand you can find in fine wine stores and grocery stores alike. I picked this one up in the latter, looking for a midweek bottle that would pour for a few evenings after conference calls and “deliverables”. I’ve sampled a few vintages (2010, 2012) of the Summation in the past and thought this a worthwhile refresher course.

2012 Summation Red Wine Blend, Vintner's Reserve, Kendall-Jackson, Santa Rosa, California, USA.

2012 Summation Red Wine Blend, Vintner’s Reserve, Kendall-Jackson, Santa Rosa, California, USA.

And so pour it did, accompanying several meals that were fairly unremarkable other than their ability to provide some basic sustenance after days in the salt mines. The 2012 Summation Red Wine Blend, Vintner’s Reserve, from Kendall-Jackson, was the best thing about each of those meals (e.g., beef tacos, grilled chicken). It’s not quite a Merlot or a Cabernet Sauvignon but clearly a blend of their favorable attributes. There are fewer tannins in play in the Summation than a Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s got a bit more heft than a Pinot Noir or a Zinfandel. The 2012 Summation is almost one of those wines you want to chew, because it has some near-edible notes of chocolate or dark cherry. Dark and juicy, and inky good red in the glass.

When the opportunity presented itself later this week, I bought another Summation (this one a 2010) and will keep it handy for the near future. That says as much as anything you just read. Give it a shot–you’ll find it very serviceable and accessible.

 

2014 Mordecai Red Blend, Banshee Wines

Picked up this one at the Wine Store too, this bottle more for its branding and shelf placement than anything else. I mean, friggin’ Banshee? And with a chicken-slash-dragon icon on the label? This thing practically sold itself. (Yes, true readers, I know that’s exactly the opposite of the “blind taste test” premise that drew me into this South Park wine store in the first place. I too recognize the irony.)

And so here you have it – the 2014 Mordecai, a wine that has enough of Syrah and Zinfandel that you know right away I liked it. It’s got peppery spices, some peat moss, and definitely some Cabernet Sauvignon to it as well. I should have grabbed a couple more of these but it’ll catch my eye next time I visit Wine Store.

2014 Mordecai Proprietary Red Blend, Banshee Wines, Nice, California, USA.

2014 Mordecai Proprietary Red Blend, Banshee Wines, Nice, California, USA.

Some research shows the winery aimed at Cotes du Rhones with this spicy red. I’m afraid my experience in that region is virtually nonexistent, so I’ll just explain that it’s less fruity than the Conundrum and less solid than a straight-up California Cab. It is aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, and is a combination of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Syrah (voila!), 22% Zinfandel (voila again!), 6% Merlot, 4% Carignane, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Cinsault from AVAs that include Napa, Dry Creek, Russian River, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, and more. Quite a heritage, right?

As I look for the URL to the Banshee website (you can click here), I see they called this “Our homage to Wes Anderson’s The Royal Tenenbaums” and, though I have seen the movie (and recall enjoying it), I do not recall any character by the Mordecai name. I will recall this fun wine instead!
 

2013 Conundrum 25th Anniversary Red Blend, Conundrum Wines

My fondness for Conundrum was renewed a few days ago while taste-testing for the 2014 Caymus. It brought forth a night of Petite Petite as well as several evenings of this 25th Anniversary red blend.

Conundrum 2013

2013 Conundrum 25th Anniversary Red Blend, Conundrum Wines, California, USA.

I snatched up several bottles of the 2013 Conundrum and have been slowly chipping away at them when the mood calls for one. Look, the Wagner family has some things figured out, and many of them are present in this rich, dark red beauty. At its core is big red. Really big red! Conundrum is a proprietary blend, one that includes Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, and is very cherry–with accents of leather and such woodsy things. You almost think this wine will permanently stain your glass, it’s so dark red when poured…and yet soft on your palate and very smooth.

Director of Winemaking, Charlie Wagner, says this of the Conundrum: “With an alluring crimson color, the wine draws you in with aromas of dark German chocolate, rich berries, and fresh lavender. The nose conveys just the right amount of oak, making you think of a campfire in the woods, with an earthy scent in the air.

I nod in reading those notes, with the possible exception of the lavender. Even reading that now I don’t know that I’ll be able to detect it in my next Conundrum bottle. The Wagners also suggest you serve the Conundrum slightly chilled, but I don’t think I’ve gone that route yet. Perhaps in the future. Good wine!

2013 The Sheriff of Sonoma County, Buena Vista

You should always cap off a day of wine tasting with a good wine–the 2013 The Sheriff of Sonoma County is assuredly one of those. It’s a dark, spicy red blend from my favorite winery and culls grapes from AVAs throughout Sonoma County into one fantastic wine. This was a birthday gift and came out to play just this weekend.

2013 The Sheriff of Sonoma County, Buena Vista, Sonoma County, California, USA.

2013 The Sheriff of Sonoma County, Buena Vista, Sonoma County, California, USA.

This vintage is mix of Petite Sirah (30%), Cabernet Sauvignon (29%), Syrah (18%), Grenache (12%), and Malbec (11%)–what I’ve heard termed a “kitchen sink” wine by more experienced tasters because of the mash-up. It’s hefty, and I do not mean just the special bottle. The glass, adorned with this badge thing, is the heaviest bottle I’ve ever tasted and almost instills some gravitas into the tasting experience. What I mean is the actual wine itself. The Sirah/Syrah is very much present in this wine, an undercurrent beneath a rich Cabernet/Merlot layer. It is really magnificent and a worthy successor to the Caymus that I sampled just hours beforehand.

Last night the Sheriff accompanied bacon-wrapped filet mignon steaks, sizzled to perfection on hot NC evening, and sides of potato and salad. Tonight the 2013 complemented mixed salad greens (including freshly chopped basil that is fighting hard against some hearty sun…and getting some good love along its journey), waxed beans, and a couple of pork chops grilled up to taste and also accented with crushed black pepper and basil.

Say the Buena Vista folks, “Inspiring dark red fruit aromatics arrest the senses while rich raspberry, blackberry, and semi-sweet chocolate flavors are deliciously unleashed on the palate.” Yup, good friends all, those flavors, and accurately described.

Screen Shot 2016-06-12 at 4.16.22 PMThe winemaker explains they have sourced the grapes from Rockville, Dry Creek Valley, and Alexander Valley in the 2013 The Sheriff of Sonoma County. I understand that it’s performed very well in competition and with reviewers, and this guy is no exception. It’s my second Sheriff of this year (neglected to post Notes on the first…story for another time…) and I’m truly appreciative of the gift and wish I had saved more to share. Fun beverage to write about, and even better to drink.

 

2014 Caymus Cabernet Blind Tasting

One of my favorite wine shops caught my attention with a special promotion–centered around the 2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a simple concept, one Winestore has run annually since 2010. The 2014 Caymus carries a sizable price tag, but is it justified? Does it outperform $25 competitors on reputation or actual taste?

Winestore lined up eight bottles, identical in size and shape, each masked with aluminum foil and numbered with a simple Sharpie. I was a rookie in that I’d never done a blind taste test, and never tried Caymus. Could I really pick it out against other worthy wines?

Masked bottles at Winestore, endeavoring us all to hunt for Caymus.

Masked bottles at Winestore, endeavoring all comers to hunt for the 2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sampling

I was interested to sample this highly regarded Wagner release, and interested to see if my modest tasting experiences over the past years would be of any value in differentiating it from the competition. I paid my fee and started with #8–you know why. Its color seemed slightly lighter than a typical Cabernet, and its easy finish I considered more Pinot- or Zin-like. Not too much in the way of earth tones or spices, and I considered it lower in price almost immediately. I jotted down tasting notes, swirled, and dialed up my next wine.

Number 7 was a shadow of #8. Almost immediately I was thinking neither of these was the Caymus, in part because neither was “blow you away” impressive and in part because there was less differentiation between them. That said, #7 carried a hint of smoke and slightly more raspberry than cherry or blackberry. All of this went onto my tasting sheet, and I started eyeing bottle #6.

Six was big flavor, an explosion of fruit. It was the right color. This wine’s big, jammy feel reminded me right away of the Petite Petit from Michael David that I love so much. Pretty cool, too, since it was Winestore that first opened my eyes to the Petite about two years ago. This is juice, this is big cherry, and the blackberry I thought missing from the previous samples.

The #5 wine was also a big contrast, very different from all three that came before it. The fifth was as dry as #6 was juicy. I’m not thinking Cabernet tannins here, and I’m catching a feel that is more Roija and Mediterranean than Californian. My notes say “Spanish? Grenache?” Was I right about that? We’ll get to that in a moment. Onward, true readers…

…to bottle #4. This one too was an easy disqualification. Very much not California, very much not a Cabernet. So not Caymus, but pretty damn good. I’m thinking Spanish Rioja here again. This sort of made another pairing. So far I’ve got #7 and #8 in proximity to one other, and #4 and #5 as semblances too.

By the time I hit #3 the wheels are turning, but I’m thrown out of the zone when the dispenser sputters and runs sort of empty as I fill my tasting glass. I sip, I swirl, I mull this one over. It’s got the right color, and my brain says “#3 always does right by you“. Wine #3 throws off the earthy notes that clearly signify Cabernet, and perhaps California at that. This smells special and tastes that way too. Is this my goal or just a windmill? I wonder how much of my game has been thrown by the sputtering dispenser.

There are fun people in the store, a few tackling this same Caymus challenge, and a couple others just enjoying time and each other’s company as they sample vino. I cracker up, I rinse my glass, and I make my way to #2.

It’s pretty damn good–is this the 2014 Caymus? It pours with the right color, has the right legs in the glass. I whiff and sip. I’ve never seen someone do the slurpy thing in real life, and I’ll be honest in telling you I swallowed every drop that I tasted today. This one in particular, because it is fine. Real fine! It is big fruit, it is layered, and it has a Cab-like finish.

Only #1 remains, and I hit it. It’s okay but doesn’t measure up to the last two bottles I’ve sampled. There’s a hint of something in this wine that I can’t quite place. It’s not vanilla, and it is not spice, leather, or licorice. Even now I’m not sure what it was, but it was closest to the licorice. Beautiful red color in bottle #1 yet no California Cabernet. (Look, if you read this column with any regularity, you know that an overwhelming percentage of all wine in Notes is Californian, so most times I know it when I taste it. This isn’t it.)

Making the Call

I think I’ve got my pick, and I’m wondering about the psychology of the order as I make my way over the employees managing the testing. Did they assign bottles to position at random? What does recency bias do to your taste buds? Do professional tasters wrestle over questions like this, and would they scoff at anyone who would confuse Caymus for these other wines? What’s the price of these other wines, which I have ordered by quality in my own brain in a way that’s independent from label, reputation, or cost?

2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA. AKA #6!

2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA. AKA #6!

Moment of confession–at this last minute, I hedge my bet. I ask the employee if the Petite Petit is among the samples. When he says no, I know right then and there that Caymus is Bottle #6 and I make my prediction. Yes, I get it right, but I still half-kick myself for not having the confidence to say so without wanting to first disqualify the David. The 2014 Caymus Cabernet is reminiscent of both Conundrum (which I have had on several prior occasions) and, obviously, the Petite Petit.

So what did I learn? Looking back, I recognize my palate has begun to tell me things about red wines and, to a growing extent, to differentiate between rich, nuanced reds and others that lack the subtleties that come in higher-regarded (and pricier) releases. I get the sense that I can discern California Cab from other varietals. And I also learn that I can find 90 to 95 percent of Caymus’ amazing taste in the Conundrum and Petite Petit bottles that cost 50 to 60 percent less. Fun occasion–thanks to the Winestore team for the compelling promotion.

The Wines

#8 was the 2014 Snowvale Cabernet ($12.99)

#7 was the 2011 Americano Petite Sirah ($14.99)

#6 was the 2014 Caymus Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($64.99)

#5 was the 2014 Waccamaw Proprietary Red ($14.99)

#4 was the 2013 Las Flors de le Peira ($34.99)

#3 was the 2014 Willowlake Napa Cabernet ($59.99)

#2 was the 2013 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz ($34.99)

#1 was the 2011 Marge Priorate ($19.99)

2013 Conundrum, Wagner Family of Wine

Yes, the 25th Anniversary special from the Wagner Family. We have several bottles of the 25th on hand so this introductory review will leave some notes for future tastings. Just an FYI in case you’re left wanting by this post. But read on…

Grapes that the Wagners source for the Conundrum reputedly come from some of the finest vineyards in California, and they’re combined in a closely guarded recipe of dark, fruity goodness that is the Conundrum. This red blend pours inky into your glass, its chroma pushed to nearly 11 on a 10 scale. The vintage, like others sampled here in Notes, has big legs and a bigger mouthfeel.

Ever have a popsicle and pull out all the flavor from the ice while leaving most of the popsicle intact? It’s concentrated flavoring, and that’s a parallel I offer you here in the Conundrum. The winemakers jam this thing full of plum and blackberry flavors that burst in your mouth.

2013 Conundrum, The Wagner Family of Wines, California, USA.
2013 Conundrum (25th Anniversary), The Wagner Family of Wines, California, USA.

The 2013 Condundrum shown here accompanied grilled steaks, lightly seasoned with just salt and pepper, and blue cheese salads that featured perfectly riped tomato wedges and fresh crumble. We through in some crispy crown potatoes too just to make sure we starched up too. I know reviewers often recommend the Conundrum as a complement to barbeque and spiced food, and we stayed pretty close to that playbook on this particular evening…but looking forward already to what comes next. Enjoy your Condundrum!

2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage

Okay, this one is much less about the 2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage. It pours blackish-purple into your glass (or your cup, as the case may be this evening) and smells of plum and black cherry. Normally I’d pair up this red blend with grilled steak and wax on about the pepper undertone of the Mondavi with the meat…but tonight I’m in a different sort of venue.

2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage

2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage, Central Coast, California, USA.

Instead, I’ve paired up the 2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage with a deck of cards; it’s my nourishment while playing for the first time in a Texas Hold ‘Em tournament with some good friends. Our entry fees are going to the local little league team, raising funds for their annual trip to Cooperstown. With Lady Luck largely avoiding my #3 position at Table #3, I have ample time to sip my Meritage and fold low off-suit cards. Face cards and pairs are avoiding me like the plague, and “6s” are burning hot on the table.

That being said, I’ll tell you the 2013 overpowers a handful of pretzels and slices of turkey party sub. It’s dark fruit goodness, and pouring as fast as my chips disappear. Loving the experience of both…

2012 Conundrum, Wagner Family

This is Part 2 of Restaurant Week in the Queen City, a Friday night at Morton’s for steaks, vino, and quality time together. By the time our Uber driver dropped us at its front door, the steakhouse was hopping and filled with good people enjoying their evenings.

Both my wife and I had scoped out the menu several weeks ago when making the reservation and, by the time we were seated in a cozy booth looking over the dining room, we were ready to partake in grapes and grub. Morton’s obviously has an amazing wine list (we were seated directly in front of magnums of Caymus and Silver Oak Cabernet) that tantalized and transfixed this fan, but I felt great about this bottle of Conundrum that we had brought for the occasion–uncorking fees be damned.

2012 Conundrum, Wagner Family, California, USA.

2012 Conundrum, Wagner Family, California, USA.

The waiter complimented our Wagner selection and gave the usual preview, one I swirled just briefly before having him pour for us both. This plush red blend poured deep and rich, its blackberry and cherry notes wafting against the grilled meats and breads in enticing fashion–of course I was hooked immediately. I know Conundrum has its roots in both California Zinfandel and Syrah, and the latter seemed to take the lead in tonight’s dance. The wine was fruity yet full of earth tones, and I’m sorry to say was our last Conundrum on hand (already thinking about ordering more).

It also worked effectively with our meals. First we sampled lobster bisque and Caesar salad, and then our main courses were plated. Filet Mignon, cooked a healthy medium temperature, was juicy and delicious. Both of us had ordered a horseradish mashed potato side that was perhaps the one chink in Morton’s armor–the potatoes were not hot enough and didn’t have any appreciable bite to them, certainly not one you’d attribute to horseradish. Dessert was excellent, though, a chocolate mousse and key lime pie slice. Both were photo-worthy but you’ll have to take my word for it as I captured the entre course instead.

Notes has covered Conundrum on at least two recent occasions, and hopefully you have a good sense of its offering and characteristics at this point. Really approachable and delicious. Enjoy…