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2014 Caymus Cabernet Blind Tasting

One of my favorite wine shops caught my attention with a special promotion–centered around the 2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a simple concept, one Winestore has run annually since 2010. The 2014 Caymus carries a sizable price tag, but is it justified? Does it outperform $25 competitors on reputation or actual taste?

Winestore lined up eight bottles, identical in size and shape, each masked with aluminum foil and numbered with a simple Sharpie. I was a rookie in that I’d never done a blind taste test, and never tried Caymus. Could I really pick it out against other worthy wines?

Masked bottles at Winestore, endeavoring us all to hunt for Caymus.

Masked bottles at Winestore, endeavoring all comers to hunt for the 2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sampling

I was interested to sample this highly regarded Wagner release, and interested to see if my modest tasting experiences over the past years would be of any value in differentiating it from the competition. I paid my fee and started with #8–you know why. Its color seemed slightly lighter than a typical Cabernet, and its easy finish I considered more Pinot- or Zin-like. Not too much in the way of earth tones or spices, and I considered it lower in price almost immediately. I jotted down tasting notes, swirled, and dialed up my next wine.

Number 7 was a shadow of #8. Almost immediately I was thinking neither of these was the Caymus, in part because neither was “blow you away” impressive and in part because there was less differentiation between them. That said, #7 carried a hint of smoke and slightly more raspberry than cherry or blackberry. All of this went onto my tasting sheet, and I started eyeing bottle #6.

Six was big flavor, an explosion of fruit. It was the right color. This wine’s big, jammy feel reminded me right away of the Petite Petit from Michael David that I love so much. Pretty cool, too, since it was Winestore that first opened my eyes to the Petite about two years ago. This is juice, this is big cherry, and the blackberry I thought missing from the previous samples.

The #5 wine was also a big contrast, very different from all three that came before it. The fifth was as dry as #6 was juicy. I’m not thinking Cabernet tannins here, and I’m catching a feel that is more Roija and Mediterranean than Californian. My notes say “Spanish? Grenache?” Was I right about that? We’ll get to that in a moment. Onward, true readers…

…to bottle #4. This one too was an easy disqualification. Very much not California, very much not a Cabernet. So not Caymus, but pretty damn good. I’m thinking Spanish Rioja here again. This sort of made another pairing. So far I’ve got #7 and #8 in proximity to one other, and #4 and #5 as semblances too.

By the time I hit #3 the wheels are turning, but I’m thrown out of the zone when the dispenser sputters and runs sort of empty as I fill my tasting glass. I sip, I swirl, I mull this one over. It’s got the right color, and my brain says “#3 always does right by you“. Wine #3 throws off the earthy notes that clearly signify Cabernet, and perhaps California at that. This smells special and tastes that way too. Is this my goal or just a windmill? I wonder how much of my game has been thrown by the sputtering dispenser.

There are fun people in the store, a few tackling this same Caymus challenge, and a couple others just enjoying time and each other’s company as they sample vino. I cracker up, I rinse my glass, and I make my way to #2.

It’s pretty damn good–is this the 2014 Caymus? It pours with the right color, has the right legs in the glass. I whiff and sip. I’ve never seen someone do the slurpy thing in real life, and I’ll be honest in telling you I swallowed every drop that I tasted today. This one in particular, because it is fine. Real fine! It is big fruit, it is layered, and it has a Cab-like finish.

Only #1 remains, and I hit it. It’s okay but doesn’t measure up to the last two bottles I’ve sampled. There’s a hint of something in this wine that I can’t quite place. It’s not vanilla, and it is not spice, leather, or licorice. Even now I’m not sure what it was, but it was closest to the licorice. Beautiful red color in bottle #1 yet no California Cabernet. (Look, if you read this column with any regularity, you know that an overwhelming percentage of all wine in Notes is Californian, so most times I know it when I taste it. This isn’t it.)

Making the Call

I think I’ve got my pick, and I’m wondering about the psychology of the order as I make my way over the employees managing the testing. Did they assign bottles to position at random? What does recency bias do to your taste buds? Do professional tasters wrestle over questions like this, and would they scoff at anyone who would confuse Caymus for these other wines? What’s the price of these other wines, which I have ordered by quality in my own brain in a way that’s independent from label, reputation, or cost?

2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA. AKA #6!

2014 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA. AKA #6!

Moment of confession–at this last minute, I hedge my bet. I ask the employee if the Petite Petit is among the samples. When he says no, I know right then and there that Caymus is Bottle #6 and I make my prediction. Yes, I get it right, but I still half-kick myself for not having the confidence to say so without wanting to first disqualify the David. The 2014 Caymus Cabernet is reminiscent of both Conundrum (which I have had on several prior occasions) and, obviously, the Petite Petit.

So what did I learn? Looking back, I recognize my palate has begun to tell me things about red wines and, to a growing extent, to differentiate between rich, nuanced reds and others that lack the subtleties that come in higher-regarded (and pricier) releases. I get the sense that I can discern California Cab from other varietals. And I also learn that I can find 90 to 95 percent of Caymus’ amazing taste in the Conundrum and Petite Petit bottles that cost 50 to 60 percent less. Fun occasion–thanks to the Winestore team for the compelling promotion.

The Wines

#8 was the 2014 Snowvale Cabernet ($12.99)

#7 was the 2011 Americano Petite Sirah ($14.99)

#6 was the 2014 Caymus Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($64.99)

#5 was the 2014 Waccamaw Proprietary Red ($14.99)

#4 was the 2013 Las Flors de le Peira ($34.99)

#3 was the 2014 Willowlake Napa Cabernet ($59.99)

#2 was the 2013 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz ($34.99)

#1 was the 2011 Marge Priorate ($19.99)

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2012 Napa Merlot, Beaulieu Vineyard

Ushering in a festive family weekend is this 2012 Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Merlot, a gentle red from one of California’s best-known wine makers. It had an opportunity to breathe and ultimately came out for the cocktail hour and hors de oeuvres on the back patio. The sun’s out, the company is good, and the food is here too–game on.

2012 Merlot Beaulieu Vineyard Coastal Estates, California, USA.

2012 Merlot Beaulieu Vineyard Coastal Estates, Napa Valley, California, USA.

The 2012 Napa BV is a nice fruity red, with strong cherry vibes to it and of course a tad of blackberry. We sampled the BV with a cheese plate, crackers, and strawberry halves complemented with some dipping yogurt. I sort of avoided the strawberries, not sure how their flavors would mix with the Merlot (I might have had some if drinking a Pinot Noir), but in hindsight wonder if I missed an opportunity to bring out some other nuances of the BV. The 2012 had a mild finish and was very approachable.

Of the 2012, the winemaker offers, “Bing cherry, plum and raspberry mingle with chocolate-cherry truffle and red rose petal in this wine’s sensual aromas and flavors. Silky tannins and beautifully balanced acidity gently support the expansive flavors through the delicious, lingering finish.”

Tomorrow we’ve got an early curtain call for my cousin’s wedding, so we’re opting for discretion over valor – but yet moving onto a La Mer red blend shortly. Good decisions on both!

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2013 Pinot Noir, Curlew Vineyards

Over the last week I’ve sampled some less than amazing red wines, and the kitchen counter is carrying about four half-consumed bottles that I’ll try to revisit over the holiday weekend. Perhaps. In the meantime, I decided I needed a palate cleanser and popped a cork on this 2013 Pinot Noir from Curlew Vineyards to get that job done, and done well.

2013 Pinot Noir, Curlew Vineyards, Russian River Valley, California, USA.

2013 Pinot Noir, Curlew Vineyards, Russian River Valley, California, USA. (Photo courtesy of http://www.cellartracker.com)

This delicious red is made by the Pedroncelli family and presents some excellent features for the price. It’s light but nuanced, with scents of cherry and other red berries in the glass. If you sometimes grimace at vanilla or strawberry in your pinots as I do, this is your wine. Neither are present (some tasters will beg to differ but I think them overstating the tastes and scents here) to any appreciable extent in this Russian River Valley red!

It’s 100% Pinot Noir with plenty of fruits without being the flavor bomb that, for example, the delicious Petite Petit can be. Saturday the wine accompanied pan-seared filet mignon; tonight some kicked up hamburgers grilled to taste. You sip this red contentedly, enjoying its rich color in your stemware and its rich red fruit on your taste buds. Only 1,500 cases of this micro-production Pinot Noir were made, so if you’re intrigued by its profile here be sure to act quickly to track some down for yourself.

I found this on Wines Til Sold Out and hope that helps in your search. Enjoy and thanks for reading!

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2013 The Count’s Selection Syrah, Buena Vista

As the sun drops lower in the sky, so too does this thoroughly enjoyable bottle of the 2013 The Count’s Selection Syrah, from my favorite winery. It’s a reminder of another time, other adventures, and memories that are nearly a decade in age.

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2013 The Count’s Selection Syrah, Buena Vista Winery, Sonoma, California, USA.

Often I look for news of Buena Vista in the pages of Wine Enthusiast, a tasting note or accolade that California’s oldest premium winery (1857) may have engendered from some competition or critic. It’s not often that the Sonoma winery is covered in the pages of that magazine but I look nevertheless, probably for some affirmation that others enjoy Buena Vista offerings as much as I do. I look not for validation but a shared experience, a shared enjoyment of their approach to winemaking.

This one is bottle #1365, finished as you may gather on a bright, sunny Carolina Sunday. The 2013 Count’s Selection Syrah accompanies steak, Brussel sprouts, and a mashed potato (with just the right lumps and consistency). This wine has some great leather and pepper hints to it, both in the glass and to the taste, and plenty of dark fruits that carry those earthy notes to the taster.

The first glass in always my favorite in a syrah, and this one is no exception. The worst? That’s easy too–your last one.

 

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2013 Les Hauts De Lagarde Bordeaux White

This dish was so great the first time we tried it (thanks Blue Apron!) that we had to run it back–it’s cod kedgeree, over a bed of basmati rice, cabbage, and frizzled onion. The onion is a salty accent, as is freshly squeezed lime juice, and it all went with the 2013 Les Hauts De Lagarde Bordeaux White. This bottle has been with us for about a year, even moving between homes, and this evening was its great unveiling. Its purchase was actually a happy accident that yielded dividends we’re enjoying tonight with the light dinner fare.

2013 Les Hauts De Lagarde Bordeaux White

2013 Les Hauts De Lagarde Bordeaux White, Bordeaux, France.

The 2013 Les Hauts De Lagarde Bordeaux White is really fun. Citrusy, light, and not at all sweet. The vineyard, producing grapes for over eight generations, now embraces chemical free methods so you even feel “organic” and clean when you’re drinking this wine. Its a mix of 60% Sauvignon and 40% Semillon (my first taste of the latter?) that comes together in an even, gentle white. It is sweeter than a Blanc and less buttery than a Chardonnay–a good place to be, in the opinion of this taster.

The winemaker’s notes read, “Yellow pale with iridescent hints. Aromatic, citrus fruits with aromas of white flowers. Lively, rich, with the fine presence of acidity.”

Now, I have no palate or idea what an ‘iridescent hint’ means, but I can confirm it’s an enjoyable citrus pick-me-up. The 2013 Les Hauts De Lagarde Bordeaux White won Gold “Best In Class” recognition at the 2014 Los Angeles International Wine Competition, which means you might put more stock into this wine than just the opinion of this guy. I’m looking forward to finding another bottle of this in the future.

 

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2013 Conundrum, Wagner Family of Wine

Yes, the 25th Anniversary special from the Wagner Family. We have several bottles of the 25th on hand so this introductory review will leave some notes for future tastings. Just an FYI in case you’re left wanting by this post. But read on…

Grapes that the Wagners source for the Conundrum reputedly come from some of the finest vineyards in California, and they’re combined in a closely guarded recipe of dark, fruity goodness that is the Conundrum. This red blend pours inky into your glass, its chroma pushed to nearly 11 on a 10 scale. The vintage, like others sampled here in Notes, has big legs and a bigger mouthfeel.

Ever have a popsicle and pull out all the flavor from the ice while leaving most of the popsicle intact? It’s concentrated flavoring, and that’s a parallel I offer you here in the Conundrum. The winemakers jam this thing full of plum and blackberry flavors that burst in your mouth.

2013 Conundrum, The Wagner Family of Wines, California, USA.
2013 Conundrum (25th Anniversary), The Wagner Family of Wines, California, USA.

The 2013 Condundrum shown here accompanied grilled steaks, lightly seasoned with just salt and pepper, and blue cheese salads that featured perfectly riped tomato wedges and fresh crumble. We through in some crispy crown potatoes too just to make sure we starched up too. I know reviewers often recommend the Conundrum as a complement to barbeque and spiced food, and we stayed pretty close to that playbook on this particular evening…but looking forward already to what comes next. Enjoy your Condundrum!

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2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage

Okay, this one is much less about the 2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage. It pours blackish-purple into your glass (or your cup, as the case may be this evening) and smells of plum and black cherry. Normally I’d pair up this red blend with grilled steak and wax on about the pepper undertone of the Mondavi with the meat…but tonight I’m in a different sort of venue.

2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage

2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage, Central Coast, California, USA.

Instead, I’ve paired up the 2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Private Selection Meritage with a deck of cards; it’s my nourishment while playing for the first time in a Texas Hold ‘Em tournament with some good friends. Our entry fees are going to the local little league team, raising funds for their annual trip to Cooperstown. With Lady Luck largely avoiding my #3 position at Table #3, I have ample time to sip my Meritage and fold low off-suit cards. Face cards and pairs are avoiding me like the plague, and “6s” are burning hot on the table.

That being said, I’ll tell you the 2013 overpowers a handful of pretzels and slices of turkey party sub. It’s dark fruit goodness, and pouring as fast as my chips disappear. Loving the experience of both…