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The Ones That Got Away – Winter 2016
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2014 Migration Pinot Noir, Duckhorn Wine Company
I’m here at Fleming’s having a great late night dinner, and the 2014 Migration is only a part of the fun. My first choice was actually the MacMurry Pinot, but the bartender just doubled back to notify me that they’re out–the Migration is his recommendation of a similar red from the Russian River Valley and I’m up for it.
2014 Migration, Duckhorn Wine Company, Russian River Valley, California, USA.
The Hornets game went to overtime before spilling disappointed fans into the streets, but my prospects are on the rise here at my favorite Charlotte steakhouse. The lighting is mellow, the buzz calming, and good folks are here having good times. Since the hour grows late I’ve decided not to steak it up but picked out instead a seared ahi tuna that is cooked just right for me and has some cool ginger dressing drizzled on the plate to go alongside the funky little salad served with the fish.
The Migration probably shouldn’t accompany the tuna, but what the heck, right? It’s a pretty layered drink, this red, and I’ll share with you for sure notes of cherry (most dominant), cranberry, and strawberry. I do not quite taste orange in this 2014 Pinot, but it does have an aftertaste that I’ve come to regard as orange (which is not quite the same thing, is it?) as I swirl this in the glass and consider. This vintage is barrel aged in French Oak (100%) for 10 months, and the taste is worthwhile.
Excuse the brevity of this one but I am indeed spent. I’ll keep the Migration top of mind for some time–just one small part of trying to get the most out of the day and hope it does for you too.
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2013 Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon, Hogue Cellars
2013 Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon, Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA.
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2014 Count’s Selection Sangiovese, Buena Vista Winery
Happy Thanksgiving, everyone. I am thankful for many things this year (you know who you are) and Buena Vista wines are one of ’em. This bottle is from the vineyard’s first-ever vintage of Sangiovese and is a harbinger of promising horizons for Buena Vista. Founded in Sonoma in 1857, Buena Vista is California’s oldest premium winery (also my favorite) and this tempting red shows the winery not content to rest on its laurels but rather the winemaker’s ongoing commitment to excellence and experimentation.
We pulled the cork on a gorgeous November afternoon; with the sun shining brightly and temperatures in the high 60s, all of us gathered for dinner were relaxing outside instead of watching football on a day I often call “Dallas Thursday” to the ire of all non-Cowboys fans. Tailgating games were in full swing, and beverages flowing–including this Sangiovese. Only a few entries of Sangiovese (see the Puglia, Amantis, or Biltmore) exist on Notes, but they do seem to coincide with family and holiday gatherings so this bottle is coincidentally relevant to this trend.
Our host and hostess provided an AMAZING spread (thank you so much, Brandon and Jackie), one that was bountiful and full of delicious treats. There were two turkeys, a spiral-cut ham, all kinds of vegetables, stuffing, cranberries, mac-n-cheese, rolls, and yes, 15 pounds of potatoes, too. So that’s the backdrop against which this 2014 Sangiovese made its (brief!) appearance.
The wine is really good, and it held up well on an occasion that calls for indulgences of all kinds. It’s got red berry scents too it, mixed with earthy spices. The 2014 Count’s Selection Sangiovese isn’t quite as tannic or peppery as, say, a Syrah or a Buena Vista Charbono, but it has a nice red/black fruit taste that is plenty inviting. It’s a nice, full finish like a Cab but a little less tannic. Since I had car tripping pending for the end of the day, I had to be restrained in my ‘tasting’ of the Sangiovese but would have gladly pushed for more if not a driver on this holiday.
Here’s how the Buena Vista people describe the wine: “Our inaugural vintage of Sangiovese opens with complex aromas of Bing cherry, rose petals, and a touch of leather. Tempting flavors of cherries and orange marmalade, with a touch of anise, caress the palate.”
I know my friends enjoyed it too and were asking about the bottle, so here it is guys and gals in case you’re looking to order for yourself. Glad to share the day and its celebrations with you all, and looking forward to the next occasion. Miss you all already!
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2013 Chardonnay, Benziger Family Winery
Visited this winery more than 10 years ago and memories of that tour still zig-zag vividly in my mind. Rows upon beautiful rows of grapes drinking in the cool night winds and warm Sonoma sun, a hillside full of goodness just waiting to happen.* It was touring this vineyard on a tractor-pulled wagon, with informative stops along each phase of the winemaking process, that probably first planted the seeds for Notes deep inside my tiny misguided brain. In fact, in the wine rack downstairs there is still an ’04 dessert wine from Benzinger, purchased on said tour, awaiting the right occasion.
2013 Chardonnay, Benzinger Family Wines, Sonoma, California, USA.
And so here we are in the present–any doubt why this bottle jumped out at me when I saw it in my humble neighborhood supermarket? I was searching for a white to go along with a fish dinner that I was spoiling to make, and the 2013 Chardonnay was a no-brainer. It’s nice and clean; this Sonoma white is not overly buttery and carries notes of lemon with it–a nice match for the food planned this evening. When you swirl it about in your glass, you get a whiff that can only be described as “crisp” and with more of a fruit than a flower smell. Like a soft apple peel or lemon zest? (Note: I follow another wine blogger and, while he’s quite prolific and tastes a lot of wines, his descriptions of each is like a shotgun approach–he fires off about 15 or 20 descriptions for each wine, and it makes me doubt what he can actually detect…I am definitely NOT that guy as a writer of winetastings…so the above is as best I can share with you.)
The 2013 Benziger accompanied a crispy catfish dish, and the whole thing turned out better than I had expected. Continuing the vineyard theme, this dish used Thomcord grapes and chopped almonds as a relish for the catfish. Also depicted in this image is a kale-farro salad bearing garlic and fried rosemary, which made for a delicious mixture of textures and tastes. I think this might be my first catfish experience and, though I thought it tasted like almost any whitefish I’ve ever had, I can vouch for the final result.
Crispy catfish with kale-farro salad and warm grape relish, as served with the 2013 Benzinger Chardonnay.
The meal was easy to prepare, and the wine was a great complement to the crunches of the entrée and the sautéed fish. Since the 2013 Chardonnay from Benzinger was available in my local grocery, it doesn’t seem like you have to go all the way to Sonoma to get your own–but you should (wink)! Tell ’em we sent you and enjoy the journey…and be sure to take the vineyard tour if they still give it!
*At some point the future, this post may be updated with a visual of Benziger if I can go back into an older hard drive(s) and call up one of the photos from the tour. Be sure to revisit!
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The Ones That Got Away – Fall 2016
2013 Judge & Jury Red Blend, Kunde Family Estate, Sonoma County, California, USA; 2011 Lamole Gran Selezione Chianti, Italy; 2014 Petite Petit, Michael David Winery, Lodi, California, USA; 2014 Toasted Head Chardonnay, California, USA.
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2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Marquis de Bacalan
Saturday night is usually a red night and, as you may notice, most often a California Cabernet Sauvignon with grilled steak. This weekend, however, it was time to approach things from a fresh angle–hence a fish dish and this delicious Blanc instead of a Cab. George Costanza would be proud (and hey I think it was Jason Alexander’s birthday too, so maybe there’s some kismet involved).
2015 Marquis de Bacalan Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, France.
The 2015 Marquis de Bacalan Sauvignon Blanc was part of an online wine order, a sampling of reds and whites from Bordeaux. The region’s reds get far more attention in the magazines and such, but whites like this nicely balanced bottle deserve some of the spotlight too. It has such a fresh, summer smell to it–quite fragrant and inviting when uncorked. This evaluator is not crazy about orange (i.e., the fruit), but the citrus notes of the Marquis were gentle and encouraging instead of off-putting. There is something that almost makes you want to chew this wine…a scent that I can’t better describe than saying it made me hungry for a sip.
2015 Marquis de Bacalan Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, France.
That did bode well for the meal, a Blue Apron salmon recipe that sat ignored and uncooked for several weeks until tonight. Displayed here you see a crispy-skinned salmon with a French sauce gribiche, grilled vegetables (cherry tomatoes and purple summer beans), and mashed potatoes. With plenty of garlic, shallot, and tarragon in the mix, the meal came together really nicely and was the perfect setup for the 2015 Marquis de Bacalan. The dijonnaise mustard flavor worked effectively with both the seafood as well as the wine. My only critique of the food? Wish this chef had diced the cornichons a little finer instead of simply thinly slicing them.
Here’s hoping the leftover portion will stand up well for its encore performance later this week. Certainly the 2015 Marquis de Bacala will, and its good showing on this occasion (along with other recent offerings from Bordeaux) deepens my interest in future whites from one of the world’s best-known wine-producing regions.
*Quick confession: I did open a Cab while making dinner, so it’s not like reds went unrepresented in this house for the night.
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2014 Terre Blanche Grand Vin de Bordeaux
2014 Terre Blanche Grand Vin de Bordeaux, Graves, Bordeaux, France.
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2013 Pinot Noir, Curlew Vineyards
2013 Pinot Noir, Curlew Vineyards, Russian River Valley, California, USA.
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2014 Chardonnay, Rombauer Vineyards
Earlier this spring, the Rombauer Chardonnay was recommended to me by a speaker who was wrapping up a highly successful webinar for dental students across the U.S. It was her celebratory drink and one she often served to friends new and old, and I can totally understand why. It’s one of the best I’ve ever had, a natural comp to my friends at Buena Vista and their most excellent Chardonnay.
2013 Chardonnay, Rombauer Vineyards, Carneros, Napa, California, USA.
The 2014 vintage is fantastic, the commensurate hint of butter to be sure, but mostly a melon scent that is refreshing even on the nose before you taste it. It pours golden in the glass, much richer in tone than a Grigio, and layers in other citrus smells that I can’t quite put my finger on. It’s bright and sweet, but not sticky sweet like the Riesling recently covered here in Notes (only click if you want the contrasting opinion), and you almost feel like you could drink it after a hot summer day or workout.
Additional facts from the Winery:
- The vineyard started producing Chardonnay in 1982
- The Carneros region where the grapes are grown is known for its cool climate and clay soils–which yield great fruit flavors and “fresh” acidity
- Harvested August 28th to October 11th, 2014
- Stored 9 months in American and French oak barrels (1/3 new)
- Released in August of 2015
- Received the gold medal at the 2016 Hilton Head Wine Festival (which sounds amazing even as I type this)
Thanks, Rombauer Vineyards, for the helpful details on your delicious wine.
Queso tostadas with summer vegetables and a spicy cream sauce.
Kitchen magic aside now, a special thanks to you, Ms. Ireland, for setting me on a fun journey with your favorite bottle. It’s going to be one of mine too and I appreciate the gift you shared with your recommendation. Can’t wait to pass it on…
NotesOfNote 